MEXICO BOUND

5/12/2022

Our arrival in Isla Mujeres.

Details and Stats from our Mexico Crossing:

Hola from Mexico!!! Journey served us very well on our crossing. We have heard so much feedback from people so here are more details about this entire experience.

Our Journey to Mexico started last fall as we began trying to decide between the Bahamas in hopes the islands would open (including the Bahamas), and Mexico which is fully open to cruisers. Just as we were leaning toward the Bahamas they once again changed their rules and we heard from cruisers not to come that it was too much of a hassle to move between islands, so back to looking at Mexico. We made contact with Gerardo in Puerto Aventuras in October and continued to connect with him off and on. He felt sure he could accommodate us long term in Puerto Aventuras, as we decide whether to stay 6 months or a year.

Dee's Planning Details:
When we first started thinking about going to Mexico I had no idea where to begin. I knew people went there but I wasn’t sure about any details, as it isn’t talked about like the Bahamas. So where to begin? No not Google, well I guess it could be the google for cruisers Noonsite. Noonsite gave me a lot of good basic information about Mexico and arriving by water. One of the links (this site is not the most user friendly) there was mention of the Isla Mujeres Cruisers Net Facebook page. This gave me a wealth of information by just searching different topics within the group. I was also able to connect with several people who had experience with the crossing and familiar with weather and preferred routes. Note: As we all know social media can spread bad information so use it for information but, verify everything.
While planning the route I learned about how the Gulf Stream and the Yucatan current play major roles in this planning. They are really one in the same as the Yucatan current comes up the coast of Belize and Mexico up into the Gulf then makes hard righthand ¾ turn back down toward Cuba then becomes a little disorganized as it turns under the Dry Tortugas. It then becomes the Gulf Stream and become a lot stronger and organized as it travels the Keys and up the east coast.  This means you will cross the current twice even if you leave from Texas. The current also changes intensity and location, so I suggest an App that you can see currents. I used various ones Windy, Predict Wind and my favorite Ventusky.

Now the route, I will focus on the 3 that we were primarily researching.  Departing from Marathon, Key West or Dry Tortugas.  When Marathon became a non option for staging due to Boot Key becoming more of a full time live aboard community rather than a cruiser destination for a short period of time.  Since we landed in Naples area we did look at the route from there to Dry Tortugas 115 NM. Then leaving from there, but wanted to catch up with Salt Wife and Inked Mermaid so we went to Bahia Honda to visit and wait for our window.  Cold fronts were relentless this year so this made for a great safe harbor.  Check it out if you haven’t.

I was back to where I had really started in route planning 6 months before getting to the Florida Keys.  Key West or Dry Tortugas.  Leaving from Key West would make the trip a little bit shorter but since the best place to cross the Gulf Stream is near Dry Tortugas, we chose this route for several reasons.  We have been trying for awhile to get there, it shortens our trip by at least 50 NM and we could go there during the day, spend the night and time our departure from there to arrive in Isla Mujeres in the morning hours.

To do that I did the best I could to calculate the slowing of our preferred cruise speed of 7.5 to 8 knots, crossing the Gulf Stream roughly 20 NM between Dry Tortugas and Cuba and crossing the Yucatan Current 50 NM off the coast of Mexico all the way to Isla Mujeres.  I came up with between 42 and 44 hours total time.  Now to figure out when we should leave.  It ends up being 2 overnights regardless of how I tried to adjust so we chose to leave in the afternoon between 2-4pm to arrive our second morning between 8-10.  I would over estimate the Gulf and under estimate the Yucatan’s strength.  They balanced each other out.  Note: Mexico is Central time and doesn’t change for Daylight Savings Time.  Our route as you can see took a somewhat direct route to the tip of Cuba.  We had considered more of a southern route to Cuba then follow the coast of Cuba but our winds favored this route although we did make minor adjustments while in route.

Yucatan Current into the Gulf Stream with proposed route Mexico

Journey's Route to Mexico

Weather window: Preferred winds would be under 15 knots and have an easterly component and nothing south especially between Cuba and Mexico. I was looking for at least a 4 day window so I had leeway. We got a great window of 5-6 days. Leaving Dry Tortugas we ended up with SE wind until tip of Cuba then a temporary SW wind that made it a little rough but it clocked as predicted to more easterly, and we turned to a more west and direct route, for the last 90 NM. We had planned on going more south after rounding Cuba to ride with the current if weather/winds dictated but they didn’t.

Sunset in New Bern, NC - Where the planning all began.

Christmas with Lilia

After Christmas with our new granddaughter we headed south and the weather was great until January 3. A big blow and cold weather arrived while we were in Georgetown, SC. After the blow, the weather seemed good enough to get outside, so we headed out of Charleston harbor and made our first ever overnight run to Jacksonville, Florida. From here weather kept holding us up. First in New Smyna Beach, West Palm, and finally the Florida Keys. As many cruisers know the Florida Keys do not provide many secure anchorages and marinas were slammed, so we tucked into a favorite in Coco Plum and there found out we might never secure a mooring ball in Boot Key Harbor, so next stop was Bahia Honda State Park for another weather event.

Sunset near Charleston Harbor before we make our first overnight crossing.

Sunset before it all goes dark on the water. Heading down to Jacksonville, Florida

Storms in West Palm

While here we called everywhere looking for an affordable slip, and finally decided to call John, the dockmaster, from Port of the Islands up near Naples. He said I have a slip. So we made the long day run to POI just before more wind. Good news is while we are in POI we can’t feel the wind. One of our neighbors in POI was on an Airbnb boat. Her name was Shara and she was from Mooresville, NC! We had quite a few connections, and we really enjoyed getting to know her, her family, and her dog Higgins. We were also able to reconnect with old friends and make new ones at POI. During this time we began making preparations and researching provisions, paperwork, the best route, and weather window conditions. My research on provisions of what could and could not be brought into Mexico meant we would need to limit certain items and our provisions. Which was a challenge with the way the weather kept hampering our ability to get moving. You are not allowed to bring fresh fruits and veggies into Mexico and very limited meat and alcohol. We just prepared to have very little on board and use these provision up first before check in. We knew we would not officially be processed until Monday and then it ended up being Tuesday. No plants can be on board your vessel. I guess some would say this can depend on who comes to clear your boat from agriculture and customs, but we just didn’t want to see anything thrown away or that would cause problems for our check in process. Another important tip - Mexico loves paperwork! I read that 5 copies was the magic number. This was not always needed, but I had at least 5 copies of everything for checkin and the same for the TIP with multiple photos of the boat. (See below for more about what copies are needed). We spent the month of February in Port of the Islands finally settled, so we could prepare and hoping March would be better weather - as it should - Right!

Sunset at Bahia Honda - end of January

Higgins

Journey at the Dock in Port of the Islands Marina

Lots of Alligators in POI

Wrong! We are ready to head back to the Florida Keys the first week of March and back into Bahia Honda State Park to stage but we ended up there for two long weeks. This is a great park and area to hide from weather but we never thought we would be here that long. We did meet up with Salt Wife and the Inked Mermaid (Kulana in the picture). Rick and Christi had just purchased their 44ft Endeavour and her official name change had not happened. This was a great time! Two weeks later, We finally head to Key West to pick up Zarpe paperwork for our crossing and final prep, like the Key Lime Pie for Gerado his only request to secure our spot. The Zarpe comes from the border patrol office. One is located in Marathon and another in Key West. It is easy and simple to get just do not go until the day before you plan to leave for Mexico. It is dated and Mexico expects your arrival to be within a doable time frame. We are glad we got the Zarpe paperwork. There are work arounds like receipts for fuel, marinas, etc at your last stops in the United States. We also saw Rick and Christi on the new Inked Mermaid one last time while in Key West. We initially anchored north of the mooring field in Key West, but made our way to the other side of Wysteria island to prepare for departure the morning of March 17th (Happy St. Patrick's Day) for the Dry Tortugas. Another thing I decided to do before we left was prep food. Sometimes I can not be below for extended periods of time, so I prepared meals and sandwiches. I did not know at the time what a blessing this would be.

Journey and Inked Mermaid on the dock in Bahia Honda State Park, Florida Keys

Sunrise in Key West

Journey anchored off Wisteria near Key West preparing for departure to Dry Tortugas.

Stat 1:
Left Key West 7am on the 17th 63nm 9.5hrs traveling a little slower trying to stay with SaltShaker. Arrived 4:30 anchored in Dry Tortugas. The water of the Dry Tortugas is breathtaking and the most beautiful I have seen in the United States. Don’t ever miss an opportunity to go out to the fort and get a peek at that beautiful water. We finally got to meet and chat with the Seddon’s on Fine-a-Lee. We had anchored with them when we saw the rocket launch last April and been in contact with each other on Facebook. They told us to go snorkel which we were planning to do the next morning.

Saltshaker following us to the Dry Tortugas

A turtle in the blue waters heading out to the Dry Tortugas

Fort Jefferson at the Dry Tortugas

Of course, in hindsight we should have jumped in Shelby and gone just after arrival as the waters were smooth and calm. We woke to rougher waters the next morning but still headed out. We snorkeled around Loggerhead Lighthouse in the area known as Little Africa. We were headed back in some really rough seas for Shelby and I hurt my back. Something must have pulled. It felt like I heard a pop in my back. I dropped straight down into Shelby. I sat in the dinghy floor the rest of the way back which took forever in the waters going slow. Dee got me out and on the bed. We were trying to decide what to do and I said lets give it an hour. I got some meds. He rubbed me down with Icy Hot and we improvised a back brace. We were pretty sure nothing was broke and I was doing ok just very sore. So I said let’s Go! Neither of us knew if it was the right decision but we committed to crossing. Now was when I was very thankful that I had prepped food for our crossing.

SaltShaker Leaving the Dry Tortugas

Stat 2:
Didn’t leave Dry Tortugas till 3:30pm to arrive in the morning hours in Mexico. Little rough leaving but 2 hrs in a SE wind quartered our stern and first night was peaceful with a mostly full moon. Maybe the Gulf Stream helped settle the seas some for us.

First Sunset crossing the Gulf Stream to Mexico

Day 2 was more of the same only a little better. We cruised through the calm waters about 25 miles off the coast of Cuba which probably helped some with the wind and wave block coming out of the east. We saw hundreds of Portuguese Man of War. After we arrived, Dee did some research on Portuguese Man of Wars and the little fin across the top actually acts as a sail and these creatures are actually on course somewhere not just floating around in the sea. Very interesting sea creatures but obviously not ones you want to tangle with (literally speaking).

Portuguese Man of War

Just as we passed the tip of Cuba (San Antonio) a SW wind rolled up the seas for a couple hours giving us a bronco ride in 6 footers. Just before dark we made a more westerly turn and as predicted the winds started laying down and the seas more following and we were thankful for this better ride as the sunset on our last night. Tomorrow we would be in Mexico. My back is still very sore and some movements cause a lot more pain than others, but I have almost completed the crossing, although it was not as I expected with the injury. Night was again all we could ask for and moon gave us some visibility. Around 3am we hit the Yucatán current and slowed to 4-5kts at times then periods of 6kts. Up till now we had been averaging 7 to 8kts. This slow travel would stay with us till arriving.

Sunset Night Two of the Crossing

Stat 3:
Morning sunrise and big swells but well spaced following. 15nm out we get our first glimpses of land after 40 plus hours. We arrive in Isla at 11 am our time - 10 am in Mexico.
Stat 4:
Engine hours from Dry Tortugas to Isla Mujeres 43.9 hrs.
Key West to Isla Mujeres 145 gallons of fuel burn 2.68 gal per hour.
Dry Tortugas to Isla Mujeres 306nm 43.5 clock hours.

We arrive and dock in at the Marina of Isla Mujeres where we are allowed to use the resort facilities while we wait for the check in process to begin. I realized that throwing lines was not what my back ordered, but I would have to dock in PA one more time and throw lines before putting this back injury behind me. I enjoyed soaking in the pool at the resort in Isla Mujeres and although the wait to check in was a little long. First, we arrived on a Sunday and second, Monday was a holiday - Benito Juarez Birthday. Benito Juarez was the 26th President of Mexico and the first of indigenous origin.

Journey in Isla Mujeres - Our View

So it was Tuesday morning before our check in began and we were able to leave by mid afternoon to see Isla Mujeres. The marina gave us access to an agent to help us through the check in process. Herman arranged everything and this made our check in go smoother and quicker, but it still had its hiccups. We saw a doctor first for health clearnace, Then Dee went to immigration and cleared us with a stop at the Port Captains office. He came back to the boat where we had to wait on agriculture and customs. The agriculture lady just went through the refrigerator and freezer and the galley. The customs guy asked about alcohol and I showed him what little we had and he walked through the boat doing random checks. Then welcomed us to Mexico! Overall it was a fairly easy process. We explored a few more days, but by Friday it was time to get to Puerto Aventures while we had decent weather. The North winds made getting off the dock quite the challenge and it was sad to leave Vera, Jerome, and Bruno behind.

Church with a View - Capilla de Guadalupe

The views from Isla Mujeres are stunning

We caught a Cerro Mackeral on the way down to PA and arrived mid afternoon. Finally secured to the dock thanks to the crew of Sum Beach down the dock - remember my line throwing is pretty bad right now. We deliver a Key Lime Pie to Gerado and take the fish to Latitudes for dinner with Bill and Angie! We made it to PA at last. We made the decision to pay the marina for 6 months. Now, we are thinking of staying for a year, but because the boat would be here for more than 14 days we needed that TIP (Temporary Import Permit). While in Isla Mujeres we got mixed information, so we decided since the weather window was available to make the trip down to Puerto Aventuras and then get back to Cancun for the TIP after we were settled. This was a good decision because Gerado was able to make phone calls and also set us up with another boat which needed a TIP. So the trip to Cancun was successful and easy and we have our TIP paperwork which clears the boat for ten years. This allows us to bring parts for the boat back into the country without paying custom fees.

One other piece of information that everyone should know who plans to stay long term in Mexico or fly out. Just a reminder you can only stay for 180 days (Six months) in Mexico before needing to leave and return again. When you come in by boat and pay your immigration fees you get a receipt. At the airport you will need to go to the immigration window to show your receipt and immigration card for a stamp. Just carry the receipt and a copy until everyone has flown out and back into the Mexico. This was just a piece of information given to me by someone in Isla Mujures we met on the facebook group who stopped by the boat. Saved me when I flew home the next week since Puerto Aventuras is about an hour from Cancun.

- Our Mexico Crossing is complete! Now it is time to enjoy Paradise!

Paperwork for Checkin to Mexico: (5 copies) - It is hard to get copies in Mexico if you need any so come prepared or over prepared

Crew List
USCG Documentation of Vessel
Zarpe
Insurance for Vessel
Bill of Sale
Copies of Passport for each passenger

TIP (Temporary Import Permit): I did 5 to 7 copies of paperwork and photos. Some were not needed but again be over prepared. I read multiple websites and cruisers facebook pages, etc. Once again, my advice is be over prepared.